Friday 13 January 2023

Day 9: Border Crossing

I woke up to silence this morning, that was a first. Then I realised I had earplugs in as it was the only way to sleep in last nights wind and rain. The tent earned its keep for sure. 

The sun was just starting to brighten so I could see what I was doing, so my curiosity peaked, I got dressed and unzipped the tent, hoping for sunshine. No, no wind but mizzle and I was in the clouds. 


I packed everything up soaking wet and set off with coffee on the brain. The trails were steady away at first, then they got rougher. The route wound through some lovely back water lanes on this last part in Spain. I came across some workers clearing a section, I think they were saying it was blocked, but as I didn't understand them, I just said thanks and carried on. I came across a downed tree, but could get under it and then some really washed bits, but again bounced through. 

Around lunchtime, I crossed into Portugal, within 20 minutes, the sun started to shine and it just got warmer as I traveled. Awesome, I love the warm sun!! A stop for some coffee and a toasty in a little cafe saw me get some WIFI, so I did a couple of Facebook posts and answered some emails, then set off again to make the most of the sunshine. 



The trails in Portugal so far were rougher and more technical than the Spanish ones. There is less maintenance it seems and what there is is done by the locals, often with no machinery. The drainage could do with some serious TLC, they remind me a bit of the unloved green lanes in England and Wales. 

As I wound on following the route, the cobblestoned villages stood out, all neat and tidy. I was very conscious of my bike engine noise and in a couple of places, I saw shepherds with their flock, who were startled by the engine note. I would have to throttle back or pull the clutch in to let them settle, then ease past them. There is some big hill climbs on this section, start in 2nd, run out, click 3rd, run out and finally 4th for ages to the top. The views aren't stunning, but the green rolling hills are lovely to crest and see rolling away in the distance. 


As the day drew to a close, I came across a ford that was way to high to cross, so it was find a route around, then start hunting for a campsite. I ended the day perched on a hilltop in some pine, trying vainly to get the tent dry in the disappearing light. Hey ho, it's dry, the starts are out as I write this and the temperature is dropping for the night. 

Tomorrow, I finish the section scooting along the Spanish border and after Braganca, start to turn south into Portugal proper.