Sunday, 26 January 2025

Tunisia: Day 5

After a very disturbed nights sleep,I left the parking and headed back down the hillside to the border town of Mides. 
There was a beautiful gorge here. The water gather from all of the surrounding hills, then sinks into this gorge before eventually filling a lake in Algeria. 
Because of the volumes, it's effectively cut an open air cave system through the soft limestone. The likes of Indiana Jones and some of the Star Wars scenes were filmed here. 
As I stopped in the village at the parking, several Berber villagers were there, mostly trying to sell me fossilised trees, shells etc. With a glass of tea, though, I ended up chatting to a policeman about the history of the Berber tribe. No one knows their origin now, just that they moved and populated the mountainous regions of North Africa.
I set off on the road again hunting for some desert piste. Whilst searching the map, Abdullah parked his little moped next to me and offered to show me a drivable trail up the gorge to a waterfall. So off we went. About 1.5 hrs later, we were back where we started and I was light of some euros. But it was a good trip and I learned new things about date palm trees. I didn't know there was one male to around 50 females and only 20% profligate each year. 
Abdullah also pointed me at a long piste that went to Mos Espa, the Star Wars village. So that was my next plan. 
That turned out to be on the edge of a wet area. It also passed through another movie set that I need to investigate and a small canyon area, before finally finishing on some dunes that dropped me right into Mos Espa. 
The Star Wars site was a little run down. If it was in the US or UK, it would be a theme park by now, with big fences, info panels, guides and a cafe. Here, it had fossils, camels and you just parked up and wandered round on your own. I did end up chatting with three of the camel herders, one of whom spoke English. Apparently educated at a private school and there he was begging me for a fleece.
Their camels were docile enough. I got my photo taken with one and found out they live for around 25 years and can work for between 10 - 15 of those. Then they are freed back into the desert for retirement.
From there, my planned route took me round a huge salt pan. Once on it, I followed the fuel running 4x4's who were taking lots of fuel somewhere. They seemed to stop at high points along the way for a catch up and gossip.
I ended the day in a shallow circular sand bowl, camped up and only half way across. It was raining lightly which is a first for me in the Sahara. The going was rough and 1st or 2nd gear for the most part. I did pass another Star Wars site though! 

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