The kick start on my bike wouldn't come back up sometime in April, but due to an overloaded work calender and too many other things getting in the way, I've only just gotten around to sorting this.
At the Splat Shop I found a great little post explaining the process, and of course they have all the parts too! Explanation found HERE
So after reading through it, I ordered the parts I thought necessary and got on with the strip down with the intent to clean and replace anything I found as I went.
I won't repeat what's already on the Splat Shop detailed info page for this, just let you know what I found and add a parts list for my bike at the end.
I drained the oil and coolant easy enough, then set about the removing the other parts from the engine.
(Have a look at my previous service page for info on this).
The rear brake lever is such a great little design, very easy to remove with a single 13mm nut behind the frame, (there is a roller bearing in the brake arm which got cleaned and regreased during this job as it wasn't moving!).
The kick start lever is a 5mm allen key, then just slides of, this has also had a strip down and the little ball bearing inside cleaned and regreased.
Next up was the outer casing for the clutch which in hindsight you don't have to remove really, the big O ring has stretched so that'll need replacing now too.
I also took off the water pump cover, so it could be cleaned and checked. Where the rubber hose attaches there was corrosion which I've now cleaned off and checked the O ring and seal inside. The impeller looked fine as did the nylon cog behind this, so all good and cleaned now.
After removing the main part of the engine casing I cleaned off the gasket bits that had stuck and torn as it all came away, this is a bit of a delicate job as I have in the past scratched the metal where the seal sits and then had a slow and tiny leak.
I now use GT85 or some such thing and a finger nail for the majority of cleaning this, at a push I will resort to a very blunt old screwdriver to ease away a really stuck bits of the paper gasket, but be very careful if you do this!
The clutch was up next and in hindsight again, I could have changed the clutch basket as I have no idea how old it is, it's looking worn but serviceable so eager to ride the bike again I've put off changing it for now.
When I finally got to the kick start spring, it had snapped and a piece was lying in the bottom of the engine casing, plus another piece was still in the retaining hole, so I cleaned it all out and checked it against the new one to be sure I'd got it all. I also found tiny metal bits on the cog at the back of the kick start so again a complete clean was needed.
Once the kick start spring was all rebuilt, including a new dust seal around the spline and all freshly oiled I popped it back into place and cranked the kick start to wind up the spring, it's a good thing to watch so you get the idea behind the process for when you try to kick start the bike next time!
Once I was happy this was working fine I reassembled everything in reverse, cleaning and freshly oiling everyhting as I went.
The paper gasket went back onto the engine casing and the bolts were all tightened up so now I just need the large O ring for the clutch casing and we're done.
The kick start now returns fine and I'm happy that all this part of the bike is clean and regreased/oiled again. Now it's replace the coolant, engine oil and the large O ring, then get the bike started for the first time in 2 months!!
Whilst I'm waiting for the bits needed I have to do the head bearings and fork seals so they are up next...
Parts bought for this job
1 x Kick Start Spring
2 x washers, (which I had to file as they hadn't been polished on the inside bit).
1 x kick start dust seal
1x 1 litre Engine Oil
1 x paper clutch cover gasket
1 x large O ring - clutch casing
Costs: £20.38 for metal parts and gasket, I already had the oils etc
On the whole not a bad job to do, and you get to see the clutch etc. Once I've done the head bearings and now the swing arm bearings this bike will be very shiny on the inside!!
At the Splat Shop I found a great little post explaining the process, and of course they have all the parts too! Explanation found HERE
So after reading through it, I ordered the parts I thought necessary and got on with the strip down with the intent to clean and replace anything I found as I went.
I won't repeat what's already on the Splat Shop detailed info page for this, just let you know what I found and add a parts list for my bike at the end.
I drained the oil and coolant easy enough, then set about the removing the other parts from the engine.
(Have a look at my previous service page for info on this).
The rear brake lever is such a great little design, very easy to remove with a single 13mm nut behind the frame, (there is a roller bearing in the brake arm which got cleaned and regreased during this job as it wasn't moving!).
The kick start lever is a 5mm allen key, then just slides of, this has also had a strip down and the little ball bearing inside cleaned and regreased.
Next up was the outer casing for the clutch which in hindsight you don't have to remove really, the big O ring has stretched so that'll need replacing now too.
I also took off the water pump cover, so it could be cleaned and checked. Where the rubber hose attaches there was corrosion which I've now cleaned off and checked the O ring and seal inside. The impeller looked fine as did the nylon cog behind this, so all good and cleaned now.
After removing the main part of the engine casing I cleaned off the gasket bits that had stuck and torn as it all came away, this is a bit of a delicate job as I have in the past scratched the metal where the seal sits and then had a slow and tiny leak.
I now use GT85 or some such thing and a finger nail for the majority of cleaning this, at a push I will resort to a very blunt old screwdriver to ease away a really stuck bits of the paper gasket, but be very careful if you do this!
The clutch was up next and in hindsight again, I could have changed the clutch basket as I have no idea how old it is, it's looking worn but serviceable so eager to ride the bike again I've put off changing it for now.
When I finally got to the kick start spring, it had snapped and a piece was lying in the bottom of the engine casing, plus another piece was still in the retaining hole, so I cleaned it all out and checked it against the new one to be sure I'd got it all. I also found tiny metal bits on the cog at the back of the kick start so again a complete clean was needed.
Once the kick start spring was all rebuilt, including a new dust seal around the spline and all freshly oiled I popped it back into place and cranked the kick start to wind up the spring, it's a good thing to watch so you get the idea behind the process for when you try to kick start the bike next time!
Once I was happy this was working fine I reassembled everything in reverse, cleaning and freshly oiling everyhting as I went.
The paper gasket went back onto the engine casing and the bolts were all tightened up so now I just need the large O ring for the clutch casing and we're done.
The kick start now returns fine and I'm happy that all this part of the bike is clean and regreased/oiled again. Now it's replace the coolant, engine oil and the large O ring, then get the bike started for the first time in 2 months!!
Whilst I'm waiting for the bits needed I have to do the head bearings and fork seals so they are up next...
Parts bought for this job
1 x Kick Start Spring
2 x washers, (which I had to file as they hadn't been polished on the inside bit).
1 x kick start dust seal
1x 1 litre Engine Oil
1 x paper clutch cover gasket
1 x large O ring - clutch casing
Costs: £20.38 for metal parts and gasket, I already had the oils etc
On the whole not a bad job to do, and you get to see the clutch etc. Once I've done the head bearings and now the swing arm bearings this bike will be very shiny on the inside!!
